And this blog shall be titled:
La Joya: La Vida Sin Luz
-or-
How in Shape I’m Not.
-or-
“It tastes kinda funny, but I don’t think it’ll kill me”
(we had “immersion days last week, which means we spent a few days in the sites of current volunteers. We were all spread out, staying with different families across the country. When someone in the office asked where I was going and I told her she said oh….the people there are really nice…and it’s pretty rural….)
Let me take you on a little adventure to a hidden gem in the eastern department of Morazán: Close to the pueblo, Gotera, high up and hidden in the mountains; La Joya. Bring your handkerchief, some tough sandals (I recommend Keen Newport H2’s) and your Nalgene water bottle (these products, along with my quick-dry pants, are practically indispensable in my life now), and basically as little else as possible, because you won’t want to carry it.
The bus you board in the small pueblo of Gotera (which has internet access and small stores) has to be pushed in reverse to get it started, as the battery is not currently functional. It’s an old school bus, probably from the US, but repainted and booming some of the latest latin pop hits. After a half hour, you find yourself clutching your handkerchief to your mouth and squinting to see through the billowing dust that fills the bus as it slowly bumps along a rocky road high up into the mountains. The peaks you see in the distance are in Honduras. After about an hour of driving on roads so steep and bumpy, you didn’t even know regular school buses (driven by a 17 year old, no less) could manage, the bus stops, and you realize the road goes no further. So you get off, and begin to walk.
The point of these visits, largely, is to give you a picture of what volunteer life is really like, as well as to motivate you to study more Spanish. In the end, I was just motivated to work out more, as I am sadly quite out of shape (though I doubt I have ever been “in” shape). The site of this volunteer was incredibly rural. And by rural I mean a few keys things: the houses are 30-45 minutes hiking to the nearest bus, because the road doesn’t reach the area. They are building a road currently, out of hand-carried river rocks and dirt. Walking means trudging over rocks up and down mountains in a few inches of loose dust (it’s the dry season) There is no electricity. Most of the houses are made out of mud blocks, and have dirt floors (which people like to spit on). The family I stayed with consisted of a mom, dad, 6 kids, and a lot of chickens, ducks, dogs, and a very large pig. Despite all the lacks of modern conveniences (they still have radios and cell phones!), the place was beautiful, the people incredibly friendly, and the general atmosphere bien tranquilo (really calm).
These are some really “real” people. Really rural – totally what you might think of as “Peace Corps.” But if I were placed in that site, what would I do? Opinions don’t change easily. Convincing people to brush their teeth or stop giving their children bottles with sugar-laden milk isn’t so easy. So I’m not sure. The father of the family I stayed with worked stateside for 5 years before marrying his wife. He said although work was easy to find in the states, he preferred the tranquil campo life, where you don’t have to pay rent (he owns his land), electricity, or water bills. Oh yeah, we didn’t have running water either, but little pipes from nearby rivers provided enough to bathe/wash in. (An afternoon bucket bath in 90 degree heat is pretty refreshing!)
This man was pretty educated and easy to talk to. He could climb a tall mango tree (with few branches) in his bare feet to toss down mangos tiernos (unripe, but tasty, and certain types of mangoes are better before they ripen, so we’ve learned) to his children. I sat below and peeled the fruit for them as they stared in admiration at their father. He is the secretary of the ADESCO (like the city council), and actually helped out around the house, cooking once in a while or tending to the infant. So pretty progressive in my opinion. I also saw what I considered to be the most romantic thing I’ve seen since I’ve been here, and I’m not even sure why it struck me as so: the man and his wife, both sitting in a hammock (their only furniture was 3 hammocks, pretty sweet in my opinion), along with their infant, rocking back and forth and talking to each other and their child. Don’t get me wrong; it didn’t make me want kids or anything…just sort of a sweet sight, in the dimming evening light that filled their house before the gas lamp was lit.
Speaking of the infant, I somehow ended up carrying her half of the 10 minute hike to the church for some Friday afternoon service (Catholic)…she was a pretty healthy (chubby) baby, and I was holding her while walking down a steep path covered in 2 inches of dust…And I haven’t held a child in so long, it was sort of awkward (like, “oh cute…now what do I do with it?”)..I kept thinking…damn I could trip and drop this thing…who in their right mind gives me a child to carry??? I’m happy to report she is alive and well.
While I was outside playing with the children, I happened to see a chicken perched high up in a tree. Curious, I asked why. They laughed at me. Then I realized there were actually about 8 chickens (at least that I could count) perched high above. I was baffled. Maybe you guys have seen this before…but chickens apparently sleep in trees. It’s crazy. As we were standing there looking at them, a gavilan (some sort of large bird similar to a vulture) came and stole one away….pretty crazy. It was definitely the event of the day, and was much discussed.
My religion was also discussed. I was point-blank asked if I was Catholic, if I was baptized, and if my mother attends church. I was like uh….I belief religion is a personal matter. I made the mistake of being too honest though, I think, when I was asked what type of church I plan to be married in. My “on the beach!” answer with a smile wasn’t well received, as my host dad said something like “ah….civil union eh…” Oops? My cultural mistakes sort of amuse me…although I’m trying to be a little more suave these days.
Speaking of suave….you sort of have to accept drinks when people offer them to you, even if you know the water wasn’t boiled, or the cup may not be completely clean. After this past trip though, I feel a bit stronger, and less afraid of the food and water. I’m pretty sure I drank some non-purified, non-treated, non-boiled water last week. My host mom my water was “supposed” to be boiled since my stomach is still “weak” and “not accustomed” to the local parasites….but soon after boiling some water she handed me a “fresco,” a sort of sweet juice drink, with cold water and floating lemon chunks. Basically sweet watery lemonade….but it didn’t make me sick, so I was pretty happy with myself. I haven’t been sick yet, although the winds from the North are giving me a cold with all the dust they are blowing in.
I can’t think of much else exciting that happened. (Except for the big event: the volunteer’s neighbors got out the generator and we watched a biblical story on VHS on a tiny tv with about 25 people gathered around) All in all, it was just a really great time being outside of the city. I’ve never seen a sky so bright….the moon was full, and you could go outside after dark and still see everything. It’s the most remote place I’ve ever been (followed by being lost in one of Argentina’s largest national parks, right Matt?), but for the first time since I’ve been here, it hit me that I’m happy to be here. Time is starting to pass a bit faster, and the Spanish is starting to flow just a bit easier. So things are good.
(side note: if anything crazy comes up in the news, shoot me an email and let me know, because I don’t read papers very often, and am only informed of local news like all our problems with Guatemala…)
(as a final note...all my fellow trainees are slowly falling sick! one found out she has giardia today...many have amoebas or bacterial infections. drinking the water to "get accostomed to it" isn't a great idea..since you don't so much get accostomed to things like giardia. that might be spelled wrong.)
more soon...suggestions on writing styles are welcomed as well.